How to Manually Manage Your Passwords

Managing passwords is a daunting feat, even in this day and age of one-click password programs. And, especially in this day, where every site or service wants you to create an account with a user name and password. That is why I have used the following password maintenance plan for the last 20 years, and still believe it to be beneficial today.

Start by creating five tiers for password usage. Number 5 is the highest level and hardest, most secure password. Number 1 is the easiest to remember password that is used on the least secure situations. Never write any of these passwords down. The point is to make them easy for you to remember, but difficult for others to guess.

Computer username and password, is your highest level security and should be a minimum of 8 to 15 alpha-numeric characters with some caps. Do not use real words in and of themselves, or numeric sequences. One way to make this password or any other password would be to open the dictionary or the phonebook and blindly pick a listing. You might come out with "lawnmower" either on page 944, or with 944 in phone number.

Now change characters in the word to something similar to "L4wNm0w3R944", or "L4wN944m0w3R".  I now have two different passwords that can be used in any of the top tiers of my security system. The first makes the second easier to remember and visa versa. (please note that this is only an example and you should create your own passwords). In order to make some passwords easier to remember, start with the highest level and then pare down to use for a less secure level.

Also, make up different usernames for each level of security. This will not only make it easier to remember the individual passwords, but makes it more difficult for a hacker to break into your accounts, since they will have to decrypt the user name and password.

5.   Highest level of security is reserved for your computer name and password. You and only you know this password and it is never written down or given to ANY other person. It could be one of the two passwords similar to the example above. It should be changed or twice a year or more frequently.

4.  Second highest level for use on Company business account and/or your email account. Never write this password down, or give it away. It should be changed once or twice a year.

3.  This is the password used to log into other hardware in your home, such as a router or a server. This password should be changed at least once a year. Levels three an four might be reversed for some users, as they may feel that the router is more important than email. This is up to the individual.

2. Third highest level is the password used for most social networking site(s). If you allow your browser to save passwords, then this password should be changed very frequently.

1.  Lowest level of security, should be a minimum of 6 to 8 alpha-numeric characters, and is nothing similar to any of the other security level passwords. This is your throw away password. This is the password used when registering on websites, etc, in which you may only need to log on once, in order to redeem some special discount, etc.

I also use a throw away user name and password below number 1. I have no worries about having this account compromised. I have a made up name and password that I use when I am unsure of a websites, authenticity and or spam policies. If I start getting unsolicited mail, etc. directed to this username, I know that one of those sites has given it out, and I throw it away and make up another.

Related Articles

• Tips For Avoiding Scams & Keeping Passwords Safe (parenting-success.com)
• Google Gives You Fewer Passwords (marketingpilgrim.com)

The Best Way to Get A Faster Desktop Computer

Let's face it, buying a new desktop computer is not cheap. After a year or two, your machine is definitely out of date, but it may also seem a tad bit slow to you. One disadvantage to having such a big technology growth curve, is that our equipment "seems" to be defunct almost as soon as we get it.

I've counseled parents of new college freshmen, about computer purchases, for many years. There is one area of computer purchasing that gives the most bang for the buck. RAM! Random Access Memory is the best place to put your money when purchasing a new computer. It is the also the best way to upgrade a computer that hasn't quite finished it's life expectancy.

Upgrading the RAM on an older computer is the best, fastest and most effective way to upgrade your older desktop computer. No need to purchase a new one every year or two. Stretch the life of your computer a couple more years using the least amount of assets and get the most bang for your buck.

Adding Newer Computers to Your Wireless Network May Cause Crashes

My Freind, Tony, from UT-Knoxville writes, " I have a wireless network in my home that has been stable for some time. I just recently bought my wife her own Dell laptop and that is where the problems begin.

If everything else is logged on and working, and the new computer is booted last, the network crashes. There are other sequences that cause this outcome, but all are based on the inclusion of the newer Dell computer."

My first impression is that there is a tcp/ip conflict when the newer computer is started. Upon checking the networking control panel I found that there were two instances of "IP(v.6) and (v.4) on the newer computer, but not on the older computers. Since the other equipment on the network is 2+ years old, I turned off the instance of (v.6) on the newer machine and rebooted the computer.

Shazzam. The problem is now fixed. The newer computer was attempting to override the TCP/IP configureation with the newer drivers. Case solved.

Please feel free to ask any other networking problems you may have. Send them to "andy@hey-andy.com" Thanks.

8 Ways To Reduce Eyestrain Caused By Computing

Wow, sorry for the interruption in these posts. My service provider went down and I am only now getting back online. I was without internet from Tuesday till Saturday afternoon. This has disrupted my life more than anything other than an electrical outage.

Eyestrain can be a big problem, when working on your computer for long periods of time. It is important for me, a migraine sufferer, to be careful and not cause any more problems than I already have. My light sensitivity means that I REALLY have to be careful.

Use the following recommendations to reduce eyestrain and eye fatigue:

• Close drapes/blinds to reduce glare.
• Adjust lighting to avoid glare on screen (light source should come at a 90 degree angle, with low watt lights rather than high).
• Avoid intense or uneven lighting in your field of vision.
• Place monitor at 90 degree angle to windows (where possible).
• Reduce overhead lighting (where possible).
• Use indirect or shielded lighting where possible.
• Walls should not be painted with a reflective finish.
• Use a glare screen or monitor shield to reduce glare from overhead lighting.

Many ergonomic problems associated with computing occur in the shoulder, elbow, forearm, wrist, and hand. Continuous work on the computer can expose soft tissue in these areas to repetition, awkward postures, and forceful exertions, especially if the workstation is not set up properly. These can contribute or lead to chronic pain.

The following adjustments should be made to your computing area to help prevent the development of an ergonomic problems:

• First adjust your chair as mentioned before, then with your arms resting comfortably at your side, raise your forearms to form a 90 degree angle with your upper arms.
• Adjust keyboard height so your shoulders can relax and allow your upper arms to rest at your sides. An articulating keyboard tray is often necessary to accommodate the proper height and distance for each station user.
• You should position the keyboard directly in front of and close to you in order to avoid excessive reaching.
• Keep your forearms parallel to the floor (approximately 90 degree angle at elbow).
• Place your mouse adjacent to keyboard and at the same height as the keyboard. The back of the wrist should be kept flat (in a neutral position). Do not rest the hand on the mouse when your are not using it. Rest your hands in your lap when you are not keyboarding or using the mouse.
• Use a padded wrist rest to keep your wrist in a straight and neutral position while typing and keep your arms off the sharp edges of the work surface.
• Do not rest your wrists or hands on a palm or wrist rest when you are keying. These rests are designed to provide support only during breaks from keying.
• Adjust the slope of the keyboard so that it is flat, in order to keep your wrists straight, and not bent back while you are typing.
• Press the keys gently; do not bang them or hold them down for long periods. Keep your shoulders, arms, hands, and fingers relaxed.

If your work surface is too high and not adjustable, adjust your chair to bring your arms to the proper position. If you raise your chair, make sure your feet are properly supported. These tips and the others provided in this blog series will help you prevent chronic pain due to computing.

Preventing Chronic Pain When Using Your Computer

It is important for pain sufferers to practice safe computing. Using your computer with improper posture, incorrect keyboard and monitor setup, or even the wrong type of chair, can cause pain and stress to anyone, especially a chronic pain sufferer. If you are a chronic pain sufferer and a blogger it is especially important to make sure that your blogging does not contribute to your torment.

Everyone should make their work setting as comfortable as possible. Many times our bodies will trick us, make us feel like we are comfortable, when we really are not. This is why computer users get sore necks, back pain, eye strain, and carpel tunnel. These things can take time to develop in normal people, but suffering from chronic pain is anything but normal.

Stick with me, for the next five posts (Subscribing is good too!), as I share some of the keys to shaping a pain free computing environment.

Most of us buy our computer funiture based on price or looks, but not ergonomics. It's important to remember that standard furniture cannot accommodate the needs of everyone. If you are taller, you may need to have your work surface raised somewhat; a shorter person may need a footrest.

The desktop work surface should have a matte finish to minimize glare or reflections. The area beneath the desk should be clean and tidy to provide the user’s legs with plenty of room and allow for stretching. If a fixed-height desk is used, add a keyboard tray that adjusts vertically to provide added adaptability.

If you share the work area with others, go ahead and spring for adjustable furniture. The pain you save may be your own.

Three Key Things To Consider When Buying A New Laptop

Buying a new laptop can be confusing, to say the least. Students and their parents have come to me in the past, as the liaison to the Virginia Tech School of Architecture and Design, wanting me to tell them exactly which computer brand and model to buy. I purposely withheld from doing this, because no matter what you buy, there is a chance of getting a lemon and I did not want to be held accountable for that decision.

I would instead tell them what areas were most important. There are three key things to consider when you start looking at the specs of potential laptop purchases. These three things are going to provide you with the most bang for your buck.

The bottom line is ... the processor, the video card, and the amount of RAM installed are the most important keys to getting the most bang for the buck when buying a laptop computer.


Processor - determines the overall speed of a laptop. You should try to get the highest processor speed you can afford at the time of purchase. This will provide some longevity to your acquisition. Taking this into account, the difference between a 3.2 GHz and a 3.4 GHz processor may not be worth the extra $100 to $200 wanted by the manufacturer.

Video Card - The video card determines how fast the graphics display on the screen. Today the minimum I would recommend is a 256mb graphics card. An upgrade to 512mb can cost from $250 to $500. Then too, if your needs are not too much into the graphics programs, there are some deals to be had with a 128mb graphics card.

RAM - This is a little different, because what I propose is to purchase your laptop with the minimum amount of RAM, and purchase an upgrade from an online source, such as MacMemory.com, Crucial.com, or NewEgg.com. Memory or RAM is very easy to install, and costs much more to have installed by the company you are buying the computer from, than to purchase and install yourself.

Apart from those three things, the accessibility to support services and the warranty is the fourth most important aspect to buying your laptop. Purchasing an extended warranty, is actually a very good investment, and may pay for itself in the first year.

No Apple Tablet Yet?

What is going on with Apple? Dell is beating them to the punch in an area that appeared to be a lock for the Macintosh computer developer. Yes, Macsales.com makes a hybrid tablet from a Macpro laptop, but that is not the same. Their Modbook takes the 13 Macbook and 15 inch Powerbook models and soups them up into touch screen machines with touch, draw and write capabilities.

Now, even Dell, a pc maker, is doing what Apple should have done by at least fall of last year. The rumors have abounded, but the mystery machine has yet to surface. Maybe this year, but is it too late?

The second generation Dell lattitude xt2 looks like an awesome tool for architects and designers, as well as the rest of us. Don't trust me, take a look for yourself.

Other PC manufacturers have been making tablet computers for over a year, almost two years. They have had time to refine, and correct quirks. The first generation of a Macintosh tablet will undoubtedly have some issues to work out, as do the first of any model (especially cars). I like this Dell entry in the market. I am surprised by how lean, it looks, and the video at least shows a lot of cool touch features. Apple better hurry up, I still own a copy of Windows XP Pro.

3 Ways To Revive A Laptop Screen

This question comes from Daniel at New River CC, he writes;

Hey Andy, I have a apple Powerbook 17 inch laptop and the screen has stopped working. If I connect my old 15-inch Dell monitor to it, I get a picture and can operate the laptop. Is this a lost cause or is there a way to fix it?

Well, if the video problem is physical , then it is very difficult to perform the repair. Usually the problem is either the LCD Inverter or the back-light. Both require the disassembly of the LCD in order to repair. But there is a chance, albiet small, that the problem is software related. Perform the following three sets of instructions to attempt to fix the problem. If these don't work, having the lcd panel replaced/repaired is around $400, and the current price for buying this laptop, used, is also around $400. You make the call.

Please note that these directions are for the 17 inch Apple Powerbook. Exact directions for other computers may be different. You should go the support pages of your computer's manufacturer, to get the correct directions for your computer.

1. Restore from disc.
A. Start the computer from the restore disc. This disc came with your computer and is labeled Software Install and Restore Disc.
B. Find the Install or Restore disc that came with the computer. Insert the Software Install and Restore disc into your CD/DVD drive.
C. Once it's off, hold down the C key on the keyboard and start up your computer. This will start up the computer from the Software Install and Restore disc instead of your hard drive.
D. If you see video when started up from disc, you may have corrupted software. You can use the Archive and Install feature of the Mac OS X installer to reinstall. This kind of installation gives you a fresh version of Mac OS X, but you don't lose any data from the computer as your old information is all archived.

2. Reset the PRAM, which stands for parameter ram. PRAM stores system information and device settings so that they are easily accessible to the computer's operating system. Your computer's PRAM will be reset to the default values. You will probably have to reset your time and date after this operation.

A. Shut down the computer.
B. Locate the following keys on the keyboard: Command, Option, P, and R. You will need to hold these keys down simultaneously in step D.
C. Turn on the computer.
D. Press and hold the Command-Option-P-R keys. You must press this key combination before the gray screen appears.
E. Hold the keys down until the computer restarts and you hear the startup sound for the second time.
F. Release the keys.

3. If resetting PRAM does not resolve an issue, resetting the PMU is the next (third) step. PMU stands for Power Management Unit, which is a computer chip, and controls backlighting, hard disk spin down, sleep and wake, some charging aspects, trackpad control, and some input/output as it relates to the computer sleeping. Apple warns to only perform a PMU reset on the computer if all else fails. To reset the PMU;

A. If the computer is on, turn it off.
B. Reset the power manager by simultaneously pressing and then releasing Shift-Control Option-Power on the keyboard. Do not press the fn (Function) key while using this combination of keystrokes.
C. Wait 5 seconds.
D. Press the Power button to restart the computer.

- Andy

Is Your Computer Running Slow?

This request comes from a long-time friend that I haven't seen in years. He asks;

Hey Andy...

(I just had to say that.)

...I'm using a Compaq Presario desktop box with Windows XP Pro. It's a few years old now and wasn't a hot-rocks system when we bought it. It's got an AMD Athlon XP2000+ processor good for 1.67 GHz and 512 meg of RAM. It uses an NVidia GeForce 6200 graphics card, my one splurge when we were computer shopping. It has a 30-Gig C: drive, an extra 12-Gig hard drive I salvaged from an older machine, and is otherwise a very normal office-type desktop machine.

Given my system's limited resources I have tried to be vigilant about malware. I use ZoneAlarm and Free AVG, both current installs, and I periodically run CCleaner (to avoid having Explorer temp files take over my hard drive). I also use Glary Utilities, Spybot Search and Destroy, and Ad-Aware SE to keep the system as clean as I can. I limit the startup menu to only those things that are necessary for our daily operations. We keep up with the Windows updates to the XP Pro system software. We defrag the hard drives from time to time, and about once a year I open the case and clear out dust from the hardware components with a damp cloth.

Yet I find that, after all that we've done, the system still is slower than it used to be. It's slow to boot, slow to respond to keyboard and mouse inputs, and especially slow to start new programs.

I am wondering if my system might still have malware on it that has got through our defenses. Task Manager processes show nothing abnormal. Do you have any advice for me?

-Aaron

Hey Aaron,

Thanks for the question. I can only make a pseudo-educated guess on this one, without being there to try different options. But, I think that you need to pick a program to provide anti-virus, and the same or another one to provide your firewall protection. You are doing just about everything that you would ever need to do. I suggest turning off the "Zone Alarm" and see if that increases your speed. Zone Alarm is probably checking every program request and connection you make. This will significantly slow even a powerhouse computer to it's knees.

Another thing that you could do is use a registry cleaner. Sometimes the registry does not fully reflect the software that is currently on your computer. Sometimes the slowness can be too many programs or processes running at the same time.

It could be that your computer is well over due for a ram upgrade. Aren't we all? Having insufficient random access memory (RAM) will definitely slow a computer down. Take into account that the hardware was developed well before most of the software you are running came into being. Newer software requires more memory, as it isn't written as streamlined as earlier revisions. This is because the minimum base of RAM sold on computers today is more than 1GB, and earlier versions had to run on much less memory.

Those are my suggestions.

Texting From Your Computer

An email, from Jesse at Radford University, asks

"Hey-Andy, ...is it possible to send text messages from your computer?"

Yes, it is possible to send a text message from your computer. All you have to do, is know the correct email address to send the message to. Not as easy as it sounds if you don't know the email address of the cell provider. I have compiled a list of addresses to use in sending out an email to text messaging.

Unfortunately, It is not as easy to receive an SMS message on your computer. It can be difficult even for the most computer savvy. Here is a link to information to set up your computer and cell phone to receive your texts on your computer.

Using the information below will allow your to send SMS messages with email;

The major US cellular carriers use the 10_digit_number@cell.carrier_domain.com format for SMS to text capable cell phones, with a limit of 160 characters in the subject and message body (total).
Carrier Send Email to phonenumber@....

Alltel-........................... @message.alltel.com
AT&T -..........................@txt.att.net
SunCom -......................@tms.suncom.com
VoiceStream -.............. @voicestream.net
Verizon -.......................@vtext.com (text only)
Verizon pics & Video....@vzwpix.com (pictures and videos)
T-Mobile -.................... @tmomail.net
Virgin Mobile -..............@vmobl.com
Cingular-...................... @cingularme.com
Sprint -......................... @messaging.sprintpcs.com
Nextel -..........................@messaging.nextel.com


Verizon users can register an alias at vtext.com to give out instead of their phone number. Both alias@vtext.com and phone_number@vtext.com will be valid addresses for the phone.

Getting Name Brand Local Support for Your Brand Name Computer.

This email question comes from Theresa, a Virginia Tech student, but the answer may apply almost anywhere.

On Dec 9, 2008, at 10:39 AM,Theresa wrote:

"Hey Andy, ... I have a dell computer and I broke the screen. I was wondering if there was a dell service center or some place near or on campus i could take my computer to get that fixed without shipping it away. I have a full 3 year warranty, so the replacement should be covered. Thanks for your assistance."

Many people buy name brand computers over local because they want the security of knowing that the brand will be there if and when their computer has problems. This is especially true for college students. The drawback is that if the computer should need a major repair say, a laptop screen(?). It may have to be sent back to the company. Or so it would seem.

Theresa has a resource that most higher education students have, and this may also provide you an answer as well. This answer is the local college or university bookstore.

{Please note: The general public may also be able to take advantage of some of the services offered as well.}

Most college and university bookstores sell computers to their students. In order to make these computers more desirable, they typically offer full support for the brands that they sell. More of the big brand names are working with these outlets and this means that many times you can take that Dell, HP, IBM, Apple, etc. to them, even if you didn’t buy the computer from them.

Sounds great, eh? Even better is the fact that if the repair is expected to take more than a day or two, they many times have a loaner that you may use, until your computer is returned. This can be a true lifesaver, especially at the end of the semester. To truly be the lifesaver you want and need, make sure you ask for help in transferring the most important files you were working on, to another resource, before you let go of the computer. In this case, you can get these files for yourself by connecting the laptop to an external monitor for long enough to back it up.

Before you send your name brand computer back to the company for repairs, check with your local college or university bookstore. Even if they don’t service your brand name, they in all likelihood, can tell you where to find the closest authorized service center.

The hidden lesson above is that you should always back up your work. Enough said, but I know I have said ... and will say it a million times.

To Surge, but How to Surge? ; That is THE Question.

There is no question about it, every piece of electrical technology that you currently own and care about should have a surge protector between it and the electrical outlet on the wall. Everyone, most tech heads included, is guilty of having some electronic device plugged directly into the wall. It’s not a question of if, but when, a power surge will render it useless.

The electricity supplied by our power companies is not constant. No matter where you live, the electricity supplied to your home, office, or favorite place to work on your computer, has ebbs and flows. The flow of the current is constantly fluctuating due to downed power lines, lightning, or more frequently power hungry electrical devices such as air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators which require a lot of energy to switch on and off.

Your computer and other electronics are designed to function with small electrical potential energy changes, but not sudden power surges. If there is a sudden decrease in the voltage, your equipment will just shut off. If there is a sudden increase in voltage your equipment may become overloaded. When the internal circuitry becomes overloaded it essentially melts. This happens so quickly there is no way for you to stop it. Unless.

The one way to prevent the overload of power to your equipment from burning it up... is to stop it before it ever happens. You must use surge protection. Please note; the only way to guarantee your equipment is safe is to unplug it from the wall - especially in a lightning storm. We are not talking about an extension cord. We are not talking about a power strip. We are talking about a surge protector.

Surge protectors come in so many different styles, colors, makes and models that it can be very difficult to know which to choose. There are two levels of surge suppression not counting a power strip which offers absolute minimal protection. There are surge stations (commonly known as surge protectors) and uninterruptible power supplies (UPS). I’ll leave the discussion of a UPS for another time, as it is typically only needed by professionals on high-end equipment. You can purchase a true surge protector for about $30 and up. The higher the rating and not necessarily the cost, the better the quality. Ratings are typically based on Joules and the more equipment is plugged into a protector the higher the rating should be.

The Three Most Important Features to Look For;

The most important feature on a surge protector is an indicator light. One problem with surge protectors is that the MOVs (metal oxide varistors) can burn out with one good surge. This is why it's good to get one with an indicator light that tells you whether or not it's functioning properly.

The second feature to look for is a fuse or reset button. A reset option allows you to use the protector after it has stopped a surge so that it may be used again after a smaller surge. If your protector takes a hit due to a lightning strike, it will probably have been killed permanently, and this feature won’t do you any good. Lower end protectors may provide the reset button, but not the light. Higher end surge protectors typically have a light, but not the button. The indicator light is much more important.

Third, if you are connecting any piece of equipment to the surge protector that requires a phone line, you should buy a surge protector that includes phone line connections. This includes a modem, satellite receiver, digital video recorder, and even your telephone! There is no telling how many devices have fallen to an electrical surge on the telephone line. The phone line is just as susceptible to lightning strike as power lines.

I never connect anything other than a light bulb directly to electrical current. A light bulb can be replaced without hurting my pocketbook. Replacing a computer, television, sound system or even a cordless telephone hurts a lot more. The question is not “to surge, but how to surge”?

"My Computer Will Not Turn On!" - Does Not Mean "It's Dead!".

I walked into my office and I pushed the button to turn on my computer and then I went for a cup of coffee. When I returned to my desk a few minutes later, sipping my warm brew, the screen was still dark. I reached out with a slightly shaking hand (not from lack of caffeine), heart in my throat, and pushed the power button again. Now, I’m upset! My computer will not turn on, and everything on my to-do list for the day is a distant memory.

We would all like to think that this is a “hypothetical” situation, but the sad truth is, that this happens thousands if not tens of thousands of times every day. It really has happened to me and it has really happened to many people that I know, including other IT professionals. This has to be one of the most dreaded things to happen to you, and worse yet, to have to tell your IT or tech support department.

You know that the first question you are always going to get is, “Are you sure your computer and monitor are plugged in?”. Of course, that is the first thing you checked. The power cord leads from the computer to the surge protector and the surge protector to wall. Yes, you checked it!

I can’t tell you how many times this has happened in front of my own eyes. Many times. And, I can’t tell you how many of those times the answer was so simple, it only took 30 seconds to remedy. There is no exact percentage, but more than half of the time that I have been presented with this problem, the answer was as easy as unplugging the computer and/or monitor and plugging it back in.

Yes, that is what I said. Unplug the power cord from the equipment that is not working and reseat it. Unplug the cord from the wall as well, but first pull it out of the computer connection and then put it back. Do this to all of the connections between the equipment and the wall itself. I usually just pull them all, and put them back, one at a time. Then, take a deep breath or sip of your caffeinated beverage of choice, push the power button.

Of course, this will not make a lick of difference if there is actually a mechanical problem with your equipment. But... It is uncanny how many times I have seen the connections look absolutely fine, but be in fact, not quite right. Yes, it seems very rude of me to crawl under a desk and begin unplugging and re-plugging, all the while hearing my patron tell me that they have already checked the power cables. When it works, it works. And it makes me look omnipotent.

Next time you encounter this problem yourself or on someone else’s computer. Do the dirty work. Crawl under, over, or behind and check each and every connection. Oh, and It doesn’t hurt to lay hands on your monitor and say a little prayer as well.